Thank you for visiting our fly tying blog! Here you will find free step-by-step instructions for fly patterns that we have found to be very successful while fishing on the Tributaries of Lake Erie known as " Steelhead Alley." You will also be able to see step-by-step instructions for warm water, tube, trout, and destinational fly patterns. If you would like to request a pattern tutorial that you do not see,please send requests to

Monday, January 20, 2014

Matt Zudweg's "Copper Stone"

This is a pattern I've used for many years, during the spring months for steelhead. Based off the classic brassie, it's a pretty simple tie and a very effective pattern when fished below an indicator. Here are the step by step instructions.

Step 1: Place a Daiichi X510 Size 8 hook in your vice, attach Large Copper Ultra Wire to the top front of the hook using either 6/0 or 3/0 UNI-Thread. Whip finish and cut thread.

Step 2: Wind the copper wire tightly around the hook to the bend and break off. Re-attach thread just behind the hook eye and attach small bead chain or black mono eyes to the top of the hook.

Step 3: Attach a small amount of Peacock Black Ice Dub to the thread and wrap around just behind the eyes.

Step 4: Tie in about a dozen strands of Copper Flashabou on top of the hook both behind and in front of the eyes.

Step 5: Tie back half of the Flashabou on the left side and the other half on the right side of the hook as if they were legs.

Step 6: Trim the Flashabou legs and you're ready to fish!

Matt Zudweg guides Michigan's Muskegon River for Steelhead, Trout and Bass. To learn more visit

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Matt Zudweg's "Flux Capacitor"

This summer has been great for catching bass on a white streamer! Most summers I tend to favor yellow, but not lately... the bass of late seem very keyed in on white. I've been working the kinks out of this streamer a little at a time and finally have it the way the bass like it best. It has been outfishing every sub-surface fly in my box recently.

It fishes great on a floating line with a 7' to 9' florocarbon leader (10-12lb. test). Fish it slow with a twitch pause retrieve just under the surface. The floro leader sinks just enough to keep the deer hair sub-surface, and the fat head pushes lots of water while making the bunny strip dance. Like most of my patterns, it's a quick tie. Here are the step by step instructions.

Step 1: Place a TMC #8089 Bass hook, size 8 or 10 in your vise, attach GSP 100 thread and wind to the rear of the hook. Attached an olive barred flesh tone rabbit strip with 5-6 tight wraps and advance thread toward the hook eye... leaving enough room for a deer hair head.

Step 2: Wind the rabbit strip forward around the hook (fluffing it as you go) and tie off, still leaving enough room for the deer hair head (approx 1/4"). Trim the rabbit strip so it hangs off the rear of the hook to your desired length... I like it about 2" behind the hook.

Step 3: Add a few strands of Polarflash #2014 (Pale Blue Rainbow) as an overwing. Trim Polarflash to the same length as the rabbit strip.

Step 4: Tie in a clump of white deer hair to the top only. Trim the head slightly as you would for a sculpin type pattern.

Front View

Easy as that!  Thank you for your support!

Zuddy's Flux Capacitor is soft, chewy and Bass-Approved.

Captain Matt Zudweg guides Michigan's Muskegon River for Smallmouth Bass, Trout and Steelhead. To learn more visit

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Mike Decoteau's Roe Jimmy

Shank: 20mm Articulated Shank from Flymen Fishing Company
Wire: 20 lb. Surflon American Fishing Wire 
Bead: 6mm Trout Bead
Hook: Size 4 Gamakatsu Octopus
Thread: 6/0 Olive Uni-Thread
Eyes: 5/32 BallZeyes
Tail: Olive Rabbit Zonker
Flash: Root Beer Krystal Flash
Body: Olive Schlappen
Head: Sculpin Olive Senyo's Laser Dub

STEP 1: Place the 20mm shank in the jaws of your vise. Lash onto the shank and wrap toward the back of the shank, closing the rear loop.

STEP 2: Cut a piece of the 20 lb. wire about 2 1/2 inches long. Tie the wire in on the sides of the shank allowing the tag ends to extend to the eye of the shank. Fold the tag ends of the wire back under the shank and make several wraps over them. The rear loop should be large enough to slide a 6mm trout bead on and still fit a size 4 hook through.

STEP 3: Tie in the 5/32 eyes on the underside of the shank. Leave a little bit of room to the eye for tying in the head material.

STEP 4: Cut a rabbit strip that is about 1/4" longer than the wire loop. Tie this in at the back of the shank, followed by 4 strands of Krystal Flash on top. Make sure that the tail finishes at the same length as the overall fly with the hook attached.

STEP 5: Tie in an olive schlappen feather by the tip and palmer forward to the back of the eyes. Tie off and trim the butt end of the feather.

STEP 6: Hand stack and tie in clumps of Sculpin Olive Laser Dub to form the head. Start with a clump on top and bottom just behind the eyes. Do the same on top and bottom of the eyes. Then repeat just ahead of the eyes.

STEP 7: Whip finish, then sculpt the head. Though I realize that it is not typical to sculpt Laser Dub heads, this fly looks much better in the water with a haircut. Hit the thread head with a spot of Zap-A-Gap and you're ready to chase your favorite sculpin-eating fish.

If you have questions about this fly that were not addressed in the tutorial or are interested in ordering, please feel free to contact me at More of my work can be viewed at:

Michael Decoteau
HMH Signature Tyer